June 19 marked a record-breaking day for domestic gastronomy after Bottiglieria 1881 became the first Polish restaurant to win two Michelin stars.
The good news did not end there with the Warsaw-based Nuta also winning a star in its first full year of operation.
The city of Poznan, too, was left celebrating after Muga became the city’s first ever restaurant to be awarded a coveted star.
Additionally, seven restaurants in Poland were recognised with Bib Gourmands, whilst a further 39 were listed for inclusion in the latest edition of the acclaimed foodie bible.
Gwendal Poullennec, the International Director of Michelin Guides, said: “We are very happy to announce the first restaurant in Poland with two Michelin Stars. We have constantly followed the development of the culinary scene in Krakow and Warsaw, and this year we were pleased to extend our reach also to Poznan”.
He added: “The Michelin inspectors were impressed by the vibrant and fast-growing restaurant market in the city, where they found many unique establishments worth recommending.”
Set just south of the city’s Old Town, Muga was described in the guide as “an elegant modern restaurant and wine shop on the ground floor of a smart apartment building.”
The justification continued to say that Muga had consistently set a high benchmark for the rest of the city ever since opening in 2014.
“Seasonal modern dishes comprise many elements and powerful, contrasting flavours are wonderfully balanced,” added Michelin. “The multi-course tasting menus are a great way to sample the considerable talents of the skilful chef, with depth and refinement evident alongside the luxury ingredients.”
There was also reason for celebration in the capital. Having lost both of its Michelin starred restaurants, Atelier Amaro and Senses, as a direct result of the pandemic, Warsaw again has a Michelin starred restaurant in the form of Nuta.
For head chef Andrea Camastra, the news is a clear vindication of his decision to stay in Warsaw three-years after his previous restaurant, Senses, closed due to the lockdown.
Entered in Le Chef’s 2019 list of 100 Best Chefs in the World, Camastra saw his dreams melt as Covid surged around the world. Moving to pastures new, though, was out of the question.
“I had hundreds of opportunities from all over the world,” he said. “Tokyo, New York, Dubai, South Africa, UK, you name it. And some of the numbers being mentioned were ridiculous, especially from Dubai. So yes temptation was there, but at that point I was almost 40 – I didn’t want to move again. A friend told me that “a real champion does it twice”, and I think that’s the way I decided to approach my future here.”
That attitude has now paid dividends. Opened at the start of last year, Nuta has already won widespread domestic acclaim via a tasting menu that pays homage both to Polish tradition, artisanal techniques, food science and Camastra’s own Italian background.
Arguably, however, the headline story has been Bottiglieria 1881’s second star. Set in Krakow’s on-trend Kazimierz district, the restaurant was enthusiastically praised for its “creative, well-balanced dishes”.
“Sophistication, depth and a wonderful purity of flavour can all be found in the cooking at this marble-floored restaurant,” wrote Michelin’s reviewers. “The best of the Polish larder is used throughout, while each finely crafted course is finished with an artistic flourish. Sit in the century old cellar for an intimate dining experience, or ask for a table opposite the open kitchen to see the talented team at work as they produce such stunning cooking.”
Recently named among Europe’s “top new restaurants”, Bottiglieria 1881 has long been considered at the vanguard of Krakow’s food scene since opening in 2014. Led by Przemyslaw Klima, the restaurant’s cuisine, says the chef, “transcends borders and evokes memories of childhood discoveries.”
Having suffered harder than many, the June 19 news has come as a welcome boost for Poland’s F&B sector whilst simultaneously demonstrating not just the resilience of the industry, but also the high standards that have been maintained despite the challenging market conditions. (PAP/Business World Magazine)