The January 6 launch of the new Tallinn-Riga-Vilnius route marks the return of passenger rail service connecting the Baltic States. While the full journey – with transfers at Valga and Riga – takes over ten hours, Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania’s rail operators hope to attract riders for shorter legs.
On January 6 Baltic Station (Balti jaam), Tallinn’s central railway station, was abuzz with excitement. In echoes of the Baltic Way, Estonia’s orange, black and white train to Valga had become a link in the country’s rail connection to the capitals of Latvia and Lithuania.
ETV’s “Aktuaalne kaamera. Nadal” joined the inaugural long-distance journey.
The train departed Tallinn at 10:25 a.m. A first-class ticket to Valga cost EUR 25.
“Flying is much faster, and buses are faster and cheaper,” admitted ERR reporter Epp Ehand. “But what the train offers is comfort: there’s a table, outlets and you can use this time to get some work done, for example.”
Of the passengers boarding in Tallinn, only one proved to be a true rail enthusiast committed enough to travel all the way to Vilnius that day. In fact, Janos was heading home to Hungary, and would continue his journey from Vilnius by bus and train.
“Trains are much more environmentally friendly,” Janos said. “And I enjoy traveling by train because you have the view, and you get to know much more about the countries you are traveling in. And it’s, you know, more like ‘me’ time – sitting, reading, eating, whatever. I really like to spend time on the train.”
While other passengers didn’t outright dismiss the idea of taking the train all the way to the Lithuanian capital, most were nonetheless heading to destinations within Estonia. Even for domestic travel, however, trains undeniably offer certain advantages over the bus, driving or flying.
“Comfortable – spacious,” said Eda. “More comfortable than the bus.”
“There’s more space on the train, and I think it’s the safest way to travel, especially in winter,” Lauri noted.
“It’s very comfortable to sit here and watch the scenery,” said Kadi. “It’s nice – easy.”
“But it would be good to have a restaurant or something,” added Kadi’s travel companion, Robert. “It’s a ten-hour train, so.”
The views of Estonia’s snowy countryside are indeed captivating, especially from the train cab window.
“One of the positive and cool parts of this job is the nature, and how nature changes,” explained train engineer Siim Kristjan Kullamaa. “You really get to see all the seasons and weather conditions from here.”
Kullamaa admitted that the 6th was still a bit special for him.
“When I started moving the train out of the depot and asked the dispatcher at Paaskula for permission to depart, my voice did tremble a bit,” he said.
During the Soviet era, a train connecting the Baltic capitals even went as far as Minsk. Despite how logical the connection is, Tallinn, Riga and Vilnius haven’t been connected by rail for decades.
“In all three countries, the rail operators are state-owned, meaning that orders for services – such as train schedules – come from the governments,” explained Lauri Betlem, CEO of Estonian passenger rail operator Elron.
“Political-level involvement was also actually needed in order for all three countries to synchronize their orders,” he continued. “Now it became possible for the first time.”
The train largely emptied out in Tartu, but Elron hoped riders from the region would become regular passengers to Northern Latvia and Riga.
“I especially hope people from Southern Estonia will discover this connection, because it’s much more environmentally friendly than traveling by bus or car,” Betlem added.
Starting this summer Elron plans to introduce its own direct train from Tartu to Riga, without a transfer at the border in Valga.
“The price and speed of the connection should be competitive,” the CEO acknowledged.
Southbound passengers had to gather their belongings and switch trains in Valga. A new ticket from the border city to Riga cost EUR 7.
“The train has been swapped out in the meantime,” Ehand reported from the silver and maroon Latvian train. “There’s still a table, like on the last train, but I still haven’t found any power outlets. But the Wi-Fi password is posted on the wall. The journey toward Riga continues.”
In Sigulda locals met the train on the platform to invite passengers from Estonia to visit.
According to Raitis Nespors, CEO of Latvian rail operator Pasazieru vilciens (Vivi), there has been interest in a more direct rail connection between the neighboring countries, but until now, its realization had been delayed for one reason or another.
“It’s normal to see in the Baltic countries that when Latvians, Estonians and Lithuanians come together, they don’t always find common solutions,” Nespors acknowledged.
The Latvian train currently serving the route between Valga and Riga most closely resembles the old days, and offers fewer amenities, but it’s a temporary solution. Lithuanian operator LTG Link will soon be operating the route all the way to the Estonian border with its own train.
“We’ve arrived at Riga Railway Station,” Ehand said, preparing to transfer to the Lithuanian train. “It’s past 4:30 p.m., and there are indeed more trains and platforms here. You have just a few minutes to get to the right train.”
A new first-class ticket to Vilnius cost EUR 34, and the train was packed. Thanks to the Riga-Vilnius route’s growing popularity over the past year, more and more Lithuanians are interested in traveling to Estonia too.
“It’s the first step, and this first step shows the motivation of these three countries to connect our passengers,” said LTG Link CEO Kristina Meide. “And I think it’s important.”
On board the LTG Link train, passengers can buy food and drinks, and a coffee, tea or bottle of water is even included in the price of a first-class ticket. Until midweek, passengers could also still enjoy a fully decked-out winter holiday car, complete with a digital fireplace and a decorated Christmas tree.
After departing Tallinn that morning, the third and final train pulled in at Vilnius Railway Station at 9:22 p.m. (ERR)